Bolivialog (BB)

Ponieważ modne jest w kaktusowym internecie zamieszczanie swoich travelogów, myślałę, że warto by było przybliżyć tę formę kaktusiarskiej literatury, tym bardziej, że jest to materiał ciekawy dla osób związanych z tematem, zawierający dużo ciekawych wiadomości nt. wielu kaktusów.

Poniżej taki właśnie artykuł-travelog, którego autorem jest znany wielu osobom w Polsce Brian Bates. Materiał pochodzi z roku 2005. Jest on tu publikowany za wiedzą i chętnym przyzwoleniem autora. Pierwotnie materiał ten ukazał się na grupie dyskusyjnej Cacti_etc.

Trip to rendezvous in La Paz 17-20 November 2005.

Participants Brian Bates \223Brian\224

The taxonomy used is hopefully as the New Cactus Lexicon with a few exceptions.

Thursday 17 November 2005: Sucre -- Aiquile

I finally left Sucre at 2:15 after having the car valleted and sorting
minor problems. This is the route that we will take in 2 weeks so I didn't
intend to stop. At Zurima, I tested the road to Quiquijana, the Sulco.
pulchra site. It seems passable although I only went about a kilometer.

The main road is in good condition and mostly cemented after the asphalt
section. We were stopped at nearly 90 km from home by road works. This at
4:00 p.m. The transito policeman said the stoppage was until 6:00 p.m. so I
got the camera and gear and climbed the hill. This became BB 1351. Nice
Weingartia lanata, then higher up a Puya or Deuterocohnia. I took the
relevant photos with the digital, and a couple of slides, then descended by
a slightly different route, coming out only about 50 m further north by a
patch of Aloe vera. We then waited until 6:00 to leave.

I chatted to an Italian evangelist, who was also heading for La Paz. He had
heard on the news of a new, today, blockade. This was because Potosi' had
lost a deputado (M.P. or Congressman), because of modified constituency
boundaries. They are blocking the road west of Cochabamba and south of
Oruro, neither actually in Potosi'. The consensus was that it would be
resolved very quickly.

After the stoppage for road works, I arrived in Aiquile at 8:15, found
alojamiento (bed), ate and retired.

Friday 18 November 2005: Aiquile -- La Paz

Set off early at 6:00 direct to Mizque for breakfast. Mizque to Arani no
problems. Found Puya raimondii and tried to find with inflorescence. One
plant about 10 min. below road with young inflorescence. Took 2 women to
Cochabamba. They managed to get us lost past Punata. The blockade didn't
materialize. Had lunch at Bombeo and a snack at Caracolla. About where we
had a military escort, 2 years ago, there were rocks on the road but no
blockade. Reached El Alto in plenty of time. Met the Czech party at the
airport, they were early. We descended to the city, parked in Imbex and
dined opposite Plaza San Francisco.

Saturday 19 November 2005: Around La Paz

Helped the Czechs get a replacement gas bottle and some supplies. They
finally left about 10:00 a.m. I then found a camera technician to clean my
camera gear. No such person can be found in Sucre. Went to El Alto, ordered
some tarpaulins for the spare wheels and boxes. Had the exhaust fixed and
the car washed. Then dined at a chicken place. Set of to revisit BLMT 179 &
180 which I had visited 1st in 1998 with the Ramirez brothers and John, Tim
& Johan. Took a wrong turn at Apan~a, went right instead of left, and ended
up at high altitude & camped.

Sunday 20 November 2005: Around La Paz

Decided to retrace my steps, found a rocky area BB 1352. Including
Echinopsis pentlandii, Cumulopuntia boliviana, Oxalis aff. Carnosa and a
Sedum/Villadia. An interested campesino told me the place is called
Hancocahua at 4175m. He wanted to go to Collana and seemed to know where
Oreocereus pseudofossulatus and Austrocylindropuntia floccosa grows, so I
agreed to take him if he would help me find the cacti. Some distance passed
his village he spotted Oreocereus pseudofossulatus so this became BB 1353,
Huancani' at 3755m. It turned out that we only found the one Oreocereus, but
there were many Corryocactus melanothrichus and also Echinopsis pentlandii
this time no flowers, and Cumulopuntia boliviana. Went on about 5 minuted
to look for other Oreocereus, but without luck so took Rene back to
Collana, and retraced my tracks back to Apan~a. Where I phone the camera
technician, Don Lucas, who was working on Sunday, specially for me. I told
him that I would be late and we agreed to meet on the steps of the post
office at 4:00 p.m. It was already midday. The transito policeman at asked
me to measure the distance to Palca, since his sign said 14 km. 21 km later
I was in Palca. BB 1354 (BLMT 180) is just on the far outskirts of the
village, near a wide \223car park\224 type place. Up behind a couple of shacks, I
found a seedling Oreocereus pseudofossulatus and quite a healthy population
of Echinopsis bridgesii, including a cristate, which was an ants' nest.
Other plants included Corryocactus melanothrichus, Austrocylindropuntia
teres. This is larger and more spiny than A. verschaffeltii and like a
miniature A. shaferi. Also Opuntia sulphurea and the Sedum/Villadia from
this morning. I then went to BLMT 179 which now became BB 1355. Time was
getting very late, so I didn't have time to reach the plants. I only saw
Cumulopuntia boliviana. Retraced my route back to Apan~a, told the policeman
the distance to Palca (was this a test), and drove back to the meeting in
some haste. I arrived about 3-4 minutes before Don Lucas. I could not find
parking in La Paz, so went to El Alto, where I found a very modest
Alojamiento, the cheapest form of bed, which had a garage.

Southern tour 21 November to 4 December 2005.

Participants Brian Bates \223Brian\224 with Edwina Pfendbach \223Winnie\224, her
husband Hans-Peter \223Peter\224 and Dr. Ulrich Siegel \223Uli\224.

Monday 21 November 2005: La Paz -- Oruro

In El Alto, got the car washed again due to so much surface water
yesterday. Also had yesterday's puncture repaired. Traffic was awful in El
Alto, but worse down above Plaza San Francisco. Lower was a demonstration
which forced us right, into more congestion. Collected Winnie, Peter and
Uli after 12:30. Left La Paz immediately for Oruro. Stopped at first hills
BB 1157 where we saw Echinopsis pentlandii, Neowerdermannia vorwerkii and
Cumulopuntia boliviana. At one tranca (peaje) there was Echinopsis
(Trichocereus) orurensis in flower. Stopped on the road to Eucalyptus, BB
1156, where we saw lots of Rebutia pygmaea, more Echinopsis pentlandii, but
very few flowers, also 1st sighting of Tunilla orurensis. Stayed at Hotel
Repostero near centre, and ate at good restaurant about 3 blocks away.

Tuesday 22 November 2005: Oruro - Potosi'

Left Oruro via farmacia for Uli. Straight out via gas station, which is the
norm. Stop at pylons BB 1161, for Rebutia pygmaea, Echinopsis pentlandii,
Echinopsis (Trichocereus) bertramiana, Neowerdermannia vorwerkii,
Cumulopuntia boliviana and Tunilla orurensis. Continue few kilometers when
Peter spots Echinopsis (Trichocereus) bertramiana in full flower. This
becomes BB 1356. Also, Echinopsis pentlandii, Cumulopuntia boliviana and
Tunilla orurensis. It starts to rain, so we do not stop at Pazna. Have good
lunch at Ventilla. Carry on heading south. Stop at a scenic view in light
drizzle. Rain clears up so we stop at Cieneguillas (not the Tarija, Mendez
version) BB 1357 = B/K13 = BDH 5. Plants here include our 1st Oreocereus
celsianus, Parodia maassii, Echinopsis ferox, Echinopsis versicolor or
pentlandii, Cumulopuntia chichensis, C. rossiana, Austrocylindropuntia
shaferi, Talinum kunzii, also more Tunilla orurensis. A little further a
short photo stop, then into Potosi'. Stay at Hotel Nuevo Milenio, and go
into city by bus and eat our 1st llama at El Fogon, a highly recommended
restaurant. Return by taxi.

Wednesday 23 November 2005: Potosi' - Uyuni

Went to \223Casa de Moneda\224 for tourist visit, very interesting old colonial
things, and old machines for making coins. Lots of minerals. Left at 11:00
or so, but had difficulty because a road sign sent us the wrong way. Made
1st stop some km past tranca, BB 1358, including Echinopsis ferox, many in
flower, also a crest, Cumulopuntia chichensis and Tunilla orurensis. About
20 km further on there is Oreocereus trollii on right hand side (RHS), this
becomes BB 1359. Other plants include Echinopsis (Tricho) tarijensis,
Cumulopuntia chcichensis, Tunilla orurensis, plus a red flowered,
zygomorphic Zephyranthes and a small purple flowered oxalis. 33 km further,
with a stream on LHS, BB 1360, our 1st and only Cumulopuntia boliviana ssp.
dactilyfera, also, Echinopsis (Tricho) tarijensis or ssp. orurensis,
Echinopsis ferox and Tunilla orurensis. 25 km further, just past a village
where we had lunch, on LHS, BB 1361, Oreocereus celsianus and trollii,
Echinopsis longispina, Echinopsis (Tricho) tarijensis, Cumulopuntia
chichensis, is this the var. colchana? Also Parodia maassii. 7 km further,
a forest of Echinopsis (Tricho) werdermanniana, BB 1362, also Oreocereus
celsianus, Cumulopuntia chichensis, Opuntia sulphurea and a small
Tillandsia. 20 km further, BB 1363, we stop for an Echinopsis (Tricho)
tarijensis crest, also Echinopsis longispina, Parodia maassii, Cumulopuntia
chichensis ?var. colchana and Oreocereus celsianus. Arrive at Uyuni just
after dark, having run out of petrol through a stupid error of not filling
up in Potosi. Stay at Hotel \223Nuevo Milenio\224.

Thursday 24 November 2005: Uyuni -- Isla de Pescado etc -- Uyuni

Winnie, Peter and Uli decided to take an organized tour, whilst I get a
door fixed and the car valeted.

We rented a car with driver to take us to a tour of Uyuni Salt Lake. We
visited different sites with almost primordial methods of salt production,
cold bubbling springs within the lake, and had lunch at the Salt Hotel,
completely constructed of salt, in the midst of the lake. The next point to
visit should have been a volcano towering the lake border, but due to the
almost criminal state of the car (no functionable brakes--.) we abandoned
this halfway up the slope. We went then to the Isla de los Pescadores, an
ancient submarine volcano with wonderful pillow lavas in the salt lake. The
entire island is completely covered with a dense forest of large
Trichocereus pasacana, a unique sight in this white desert of salt and an
immense level of irradiation. We had a round trip of the island across the
forest and could even watch large colibri birds flying around the plants.
Then we returned to Uyuni just visiting the \223cemetery of ancient
locomotives\224 at the border of the town. After all, this was a sometimes
really dangerous, but very rewarding trip.

Friday 25 November 2005: Uyuni -- Villazon

About 20 km before Atocha, BB 1364, a scene like Bryce Canyon, with many of
the same red flowered Zephyranthes, a few black spined Cumulopuntia
boliviana and Tunilla orurensis. Between Atocha and Tupiza, BB 1365 at
3980m altitude, Rebutia atrovirens with yellow flowers, Echinopsis
kupperiana, Parodia maassii, Oreocereus trollii, Cumulopuntia chichensis
and Tunilla orurensis, also down the gorge Echinopsis (Tricho) tarijensis.
Stopped west of Tupiza to photograph the scenery of eroded sandstone. Past
straight thru Tupiza and arrived Villazon after dark. Whilst looking for
hotel, was shunted from behind by a Bolivian who obviously was not paying
attention. To get out of the Transito building, I had to accept 50% of the
blame for braking hard. Petr Kupcak was also in the Transito building,
having difficulty with a car hire from Tarija. Stayed at Hotel Olimpo.

Saturday 26 November 2005: Villazon - La Quiaca -- Villazon

The day didn't start well, and got worse. At the frontier, the Argentine
customs asked for international insurance documents, which couldn't be
obtained in Villazon, so I took the car back to the Hotel Olimpo, and
booked us in for another night. I met Petr Kupcak again, he was still in
Bolivia. I crossed the border on foot. We engaged a taxi to take us to the
Yavias. He got a puncture even before the Echinopsis longispina, had to
drive onto a rock to lift the car for the jack, and then excavate a little.
The car slipped of the jack, etc. etc. He took about an hour to change the
wheel. We traveled on west to BB 1120, where we found all colours of
Echinopsis longispina. The taxi driver was now probably as nervous as we
were and drove very gingerly. We arrived at the well known Yavia site, BB
507, and quickly found a plant, searching a little more, we found a group
of 6, then one in flower, etc. We also found Rebutia in flower, with yellow
flowers. We returned to La Quiaca. The restaurant where my slides were left
was closed, so we went to \223La Frontera\224 for lunch. After lunch we
contracted another taxi to take us to the \223Blossfeld site\224. He got a
puncture just after leaving the asphalt, and continued a little way, then
the taxi driver refused to go on, so it was decided to return to Villazon.
I left Winnie, Peter and Uli at the frontier and returned to try to recover
my slides, but the owner of the restaurant and his wife were not at home
and everything was locked up. I crossed the border and returned to the
Hotel Olimpo, where Winnie, Peter and Uli were waiting having been refused
an entry visa because of being less than 24 hours in Argentina. Another new
rule for this trip. We all went back to immigration where the problem was
quickly resolved. Due to all the difficulties of crossing the border, it is
best that it is removed from future tours.

Sunday 27 November 2005: Villazon -- Tarija

We turned north straight after the barrier at Villazon and headed for BB
510. Here we had difficulty in finding Weingartia neumanniana. Uli finally
found the 1st and a little later Peter found one in flower. Here was also
Echinopsis longispina, Parodia maassii and Cumulopuntia boliviana. On the
way back to the main road, I missed one of the many diversions and finally
arrived very close to the Villazon/La Quiaca border bridge. At the
\223tranca\224, I told the transito about my mistake and told him I was stupid.
We both had a laugh and we passed through the barrier. Some kilometers down
the Tarija road, we stopped for Puya alpestris, there were old
inflorescences, but no new to show the beautiful blue flowers, also here
was almost the full suite of southern cerei, Oreocereus celsianus,
Echinopsis (Trichocereus) werdermanniana, and Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
tacaquirensis. Also our 1st Cleistocactus buchtienii, and the almost
everpresent Opuntia sulphurea. This became BB 1366. A few kilometers west
of Yunachara', BB 1367, we stopped for red flowers which were Echinopsis
pugionacantha or some variety of it, also Parodia maassii, Cumulopuntia
chichensis, Tunilla soehrensii and Opuntia sulphurea. As we passed the lake
south of Iscayachi, Uli scanned it for flamingos, but didn't see any, so we
continued to BB 279, the rocky patch above Iscayachi, where we saw
Rebutias, a small digitorebutia, a small white spined rebutia and Rebutia
fiebrigii. We continued to the Luisa memorial cross on the Cuesta de Sama,
BB 280, where we found many Sulcorebutia tarijensis, plus Echinopsis
chrysochete, a rebutia species and a puya. A little below the cross we
stopped at BB 1368, where we again found Sulcorebutia tarijensis,
Echinopsis chrysochete, a rebutia species and 2 puyas, a large and a very
small, also an oxalis with small purple flowers and the orange flowered
asclepiad Lugonia lysimachiopides.We continued to Tarija and stayed at the
Victoria Plaza Hotel, just over the road from the Gatto Pardo Restaurant,
where we later ate.

Monday 28 November 2005: Tarija -- Narvaez -- Tarija

We set off in the direction of Entre Rios, and stopped at Santa Ana La
Nueva, BB 1369, for a huge Erythrina cristagallii in full, red flower, it
had 3 species of Tillandsia growing in it, T. duratii, T. bryoides and
another miniature species. There was also a host of interesting plants
including Echinopsis (Trichocereus) caulescens, Cereus spec., Cleistocactus
hyalacanthus, Echinopsis mamillosa, Opuntia sulphurea and Opuntia aff.
leptocaulis. Peter walked on a little and also found Harrisia hanging down
the cut face of the road edge. There was also a red flowered Portulacaceae
which might be Clandrinia. At Canaletas Centro, BB 1370, we found Rebutia
aff. fiebrigii, Echinopsis mamillosa, Cleistocactus strausii, Begonia
boliviensis just emerging from dormancy, Echinopsis (Trichocereus) aff.
macrogonus and a Zephyranthes. About 1 km east of Canaletas, on the
opposite side of the stream we saw masses of Cleistocactus strausii, there
looking distinctly black from a distance, but were in fact white. The site
was both sides of the stream, and included the white spined Rebutia
muscula, sometimes in deep shade of an overhang, also one plant of a
possible Sinningia and Echinopsis mamillosa, Echinopsis (Trichocereus) aff.
macrogonus and Begonia boliviensis. We then went on to La Angostura, BB
034, where we found Blossfeldia liliputana at road level, and wasp nests as
well as Echinopsis tiegeliana ssp. flaviflora and a hill full of
Abrometiella brevifolia and A. lorentziana. We returned to the hotel and at
at the recently opened Bufalo restaurant, which is equal if not better in
every respect to the Gatto Pardo.

Tuesday 29 November 2005: Tarija - Camargo

We set off for Camargo, we stopped by Lloyd Areo Boliviana's office to
confirm the flights, but they said that they couldn't because the flights
were from La Paz. This seemed to be ridiculous. We agreed to do the
confirmations in Sucre. We stopped on the Cuesta de Sama near BB 494 to
photograph Echinopsis obrebanda in flower. There was also a flowering
rebutia. We passed Iscayachi and stopped at BB 1372, just before the turn
for Curqui. Here very near the road we found lots of opuntias, Cumulopuntia
rossiana with red flowers, Austrocylindropuntia verschaffeltii, Opuntia
sulpurea and a very fragile species which might be tunilla or a relative of
Opuntia anacantha. There were lots of red flowers from a rebutia species as
well as Oreocereus trollii, Echinopsis tenuispina, showing its affinity
with chrysochete. To make up the list was Parodia escayachensis. We drove
through the awesome Curqui valley where there are 10,000's of cerei, mainly
Oreocereus celsianus, but also Echinopsis (Trichocereus) werdermanniana,
Echinopsis (Trichocereus) tacaquirensis and Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
tarijensis. This valley is my 2nd most favourite spot in the whole world.
At the northern end of the Curqui valley we stopped at BB 1373 to
photograph a small Echinopsis of Backeberg's Helianthocereus. These were
flowering at 0.5 m tall whilst the taller Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
tarijensis was completely without flowers. This suggested that they were
different species. I think the small plant is Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
poco. Plants are so intelligent, the lengths they go to to avoid
hybridisation! Other plants here included Oreocereus celsianus,
Cumulopuntia chichensis, Tunilla species and Opuntia sulphurea. A little
further we stopped to photograph a stand of Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
tacaquirensis in full flower. Further north, we stopped at BB 1374 for
Corryocactus tarijensis. There were also Parodia maxima with seed,
Echinopsis (Trichocereus) tarijensis, Oreocereus celsianus, Cleistocactus
buchtienii, Cumulopuntia chichensis, Opuntia sulphurea and the bromeliad
genus Deuterocohnia. We also stopped at BB 029 to photograph Oreocereus
celsianus, the clone FG, from which I took a small cutting. Just north of
Cieneguillas we stopped at BB 1231 to photograph Weingartia kargliana and
Parodia slabaiana, which I think is P. occulta. There were lots of road
works and I missed the turn for Carrizal. An engineer told me that they
will start asphalting in about 6 months. We stopped at El Puente for
refreshments. Then drove to Puente San Pedro, where we went up a few bends
to where the Parodia roseoalba var. australis starts. This is BB 062 and
also has Weingartia cintiensis and Echinopsis lateritia. At the tranca, I
realized that my wallet was back at El Puente. I booked us into the Hostal,
and then set off for the 4 hour round trip to recover my wallet. On arrival
at the Hostal, Winnie, Peter and Uli were imbibing a local white wine, so
another glass was found and I helped empty the bottle.

Wednesday 30 November 2005: Camargo -- Sucre

Just north of Camargo were more roadworks. We made a couple of short
photographic stops, then at Padcoyo we stopped at BB 563 for Cintia knizei.
We only found 2, the 1st of these in very poor condition. Here also were
Weingartia lecoriensis with ripe fruit, and Cumulopuntia rossiana. The
single Oreocereus of previous years has gone. Now we made the long drive to
Cuchu Ingenio where we stopped at BB 1184, where we saw Weingartia westii,
Oreocereus celsianus, Echinopsis longispina, Echinopsis versicolor,
Cumulopuntia chichensis, Parodia maassi and others. Another long drive
through Potosi to Millares, where we stopped at BB 003 to photograph
Gymnocalycium millaresii, Weingartia platygona and Blossfeldia liliputana.
Also were Echinopsis (Trichocereus) taquimbalensis, which may have been
introduced from elsewhere. Drove straight into Sucre, to Residential Sucre.
I waited about 30 mins then we went to dinner at Churadqueria Guardemonte
which I have always said has the best steak in south America, but after
Bufalo in Tarija, I'm not so sure. A taxi took Winnie, Peter and Uli to the
hotel, and I went home for 1 night in my own bed.

Thursday 1 December 2005: Sucre -- Aiquile

I got up early, downloaded 137 emails, replied to a couple and then went to
collect Winnie, Peter and Uli. Two weeks ago, I encountered a barrier at
road works just before Puente Arce, so there was no point in arriving there
much before 6:00 p.m. I drove to the plaza, and paid a young man to wash
and wax the car, whilst we confirmed the flights. There was only 45 minutes
connection at Santa Cruz. We were told 2 boarding passes will be issued at
La Paz. We crossed the plaza to get CD's burned from the camera memory
chips, 9 CD's for a little over $1, buy post cards and go to the post
office to post Uli's completed cards and buy stamps for the new cards. We
went to my house for photos of my collection, then squeezed the 3 children
into the front seat for the ride into the city for lunch. The restaurant
had relocated and we couldn't find room in another, so a lengthy walk back
across the plaza, where we had lunch in a more western restaurant. I said
goodbye to the family and went to recover the car. Off now for Aiquile. We
made a couple of photographic stops for Harrisia (Roseocereus) tetracantha
and Neoraimondia herzogiana, then arrived at the barrier at about 5:15. We
climbed up BB 1351 to photograph Weingartia lanata. Winnie found them very
low down, thus saving a lengthy climb. They lifted the barrier at 6:00 and
a mad dash to overtake as many vehicles as possible before the dirt. At the
2nd barrier, we were well to the fore. I drove at an easy pace into
Aiquile, thus avoiding lots of dust. This now was the end of the dirt
roads, only cobbles and asphalt left.

Friday 2 December 2005: Aiquile -- Quillacolla

After breakfast, we went to the south end of town, BB 352 to photograph
Sulcorebutia mentosa. Now across the river, behind the hospital, to BB 1375
for Ritter's Weingartia multispina. The largest plant about 20 cm across.
Also here Echinopsis huotii (E. cochabambensis), Harrisia (Roseocereus)
tetracantha and Opuntia aff. anacantha. On now, non-stop to the Mizque
bypass, BB 1375a (BDH 58a), Quiabentia pflanzii. Uli also spotted a nice
Pereskia sacharosa across the road. I've been here many times and never
before spotted the Pereskia. A short stop in the market at Mizque, then off
in the direction of Arani. We stopped at BB 1376, a rocky area beside the
road, where Winnie found a solitary, large Sulcorebutia marianae var. laui.
Here also was Puya and species Fuchsia. We carried on to BB 1072 for
Sulcorebutia maianae. Further still BB 1071 Sulcorebutia maianae and a puya
species. Where, 2 weeks earlier, I asked a campesino about Puya raimondii
in flower, we stopped at BB 1377 to photograph the one on his land. The
inflorescence is young and small in comparison to the giants in Cajamarca,
Peru. In a rocky patch nearby, Uli found a cristate Sulcorebutia marianae
var. laui. There was also the small, delicate, purple flowered Oxalis. The
last stop of the day was BB 1066, the type locality of Weingartia jarmilae.
I'm unsure whether this is Weingartia or Echinopsis (Lobivia) oligotricha
as most experts believe. We also saw Parodia schwebsiana var. applanata and
Echinopsis obrepanda. The traffic in Cochabamba was absolutely lunatic. It
took well over an hour to go about 4 blocks. We arrived at Quillacollo just
after dark, a little short tempered because of the traffic.

Saturday 3 December 2005: Quillacolla -- Lago Titicaca

We went straight to Estacion de Bombeo, then down
to BB 1235, to photograph Suclorebutia
verticillacantha in flower. Our only cactus stop
of the day. The rest, a roughly 500 km drive. We
stopped at El Cumbre where the sign says 4496 m
altitude, the highest point of the whole trip. A
couple of short breaks to refresh and rest before
the bedlam of El Alto and Rio Seco. This bedlam,
you have to see to believe. It's different world.
Down to Taquina and the ferry (16 Mb video). Uli
didn't stop laughing for the rest of the day. A
couple of dusk photos and then the best hotel of
the whole trip, which also had a good restaurant,
for the last opportunity to eat llama steak or fish.

Sunday 4 December 2005: Lago Titicaca -- La Paz

We left after breakfast and took the same
photograph of Copacabana in the light. Later, a
short photo break showing islands in the lake,
whilst I made a quick search for cacti, but found
nothing. Back to the ferry and headed for La Paz.
At Huarina, a short detour to Achacachi to visit
Jim's Hill, BB 1378, where Jim Kirtley dried
himself in 1989, after I got us stuck. We found
the Austrocylindropuntia floccosa. This may be a
single clone, but still there are healthy clumps.
Also here Echinopsis maximiliana in flower. Back
up to near Rio Seco and then to Tihuanaco.
Everyone was disappointed with this. We returned
to the Hotel Eldorado in La Paz, where we said
our goodbyes. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip with
nice people who were thrilled to see lots of
cacti. Any cacti! Not freaks who only want to see a specific genus!

Brian Bates
cactus[malpa]cotes.net.bo

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